The slow train to Chicago

Well, I have just settled into my hostel in Chicago following a marathon train ride from Denver. It was supposed to take 18 hours, it ended up taking about 20 thanks to some selfish rich mo-fo's having to hook up their private rail cars while we the passengers waited.

Despite the delays, I had an awesome time and am so happy that I chose to travel by train! The Amtrak Superliner train was very comfortable, providing more than twice the legroom of a passanger airplane, and with the added freedom of being able to move about the train and sit in dining cars and observation cars as you please. And nothing can quite compare to being able to take in all that scenery at ground level, as you meet fellow travellers and have interesting conversation.

Sun rising over Nebraska this morning, as we rolled east across the plains.

Random old brick buildings in some small town in Iowa, that was obviously humming in its day.

Crossing the Mississippi River from Burlington, Iowa into Illinois.

This coal car was really hot. Hint: you may need to click on the photo to enlarge so you can read the halarious signwriting.

And finally, arriving in Chicago this afternoon. In between the rail cars the 103 storey Sears Tower is visible.

On the train I sat next to a guy named Joe from Portland, Oregon who is doing pretty much the same thing as me - travelling across America on the trains until July. We're going to be in New York at the same time so will probably catch up with him over a beer.

Union Station in Chicago is ridiculously huge. Practically all cross country trains pass through Chicago, so the bustling and crowded station concources are like a cross section of America. It really was a cool experience arriving there.

First impressions of Chicago (and I stress first impressions - I've barely had a chance to explore yet): an enormous and unfriendly city where honking is constantly heard from the traffic, as if drivers in the clogged streets think that by honking their horn there will magically be room for their car. I love it though, and the skyline is spectacular. And its hot, which is a bonus.

Haven't seen Oprah Winfrey yet, but I'm sure the phone will ring soon. There was a rumour that one of those private rail cars on the train belonged to Clint Eastwood, but I have been unable to confirm. Whoever it was got on board at Denver and arrived there in a big black limo. The other private car belonged to executives from BNSF railroad, who joined the train in Burlington for Friday afternoon drinks. They causes a near 45 minute delay, and the driver very tactfully made sure we knew why we were delayed.

The hostel here is really neat, its huge. Not sure what I will do tonight but if there is nothing terribly pressing I might just go to bed - I have literally had around 12 hours sleep since arriving in the country, all in bursts no longer than 2-3 hours. I'm quite happily running on addreniline, but I think some sleep might be a good idea.

Coors Brewery Tour

OK, OK.... I know that I said my next post would be from Chicago, but something happened today that was so great it has to be shared with the highest urgency.

Now say what you want about the American welfare system, or lack thereof... and how the free market fails to provide for those in need. But at 10.30 this morning in a western gold rush turned ski town on the outskirts of Denver, Corporate America provided!

I visited the largest brewing plant in the world, toured it for free, and got three free beers for my trouble! All it cost me was the $2 bus fare to get out there for a half day of entertainment and education. The brewhouse is enormous, containing 50 brew kettles. Needless to say it was hot in there. But more impressive still was the bottling plant, which had an output of 1800 cans of beer per minute, plus 340 kegs per hour. It moved so fast, it was pretty much impossible to track the progress of an individual can through the plant. Apparently 300 rail cars and 1500 trucks ship out of there every week, each holding about 100,000 cans of beer.

But by far the most impressive part of the tour of all, was the free beer tastings. I had paid nothing for the privelege, and felt a bit guilty as I let them take a photo of me at the beginning of the tour which I knew I had no intention of paying for, and guiltier still as I sampled 3 pints of their beer. If it wasn't for my new-beer-at-each-bar-while-on-tour policy, they may have gained themselves a regular customer out of me.

Denver

Hi everyone. Sorry for the wait, the internet at my hostel is really temperamental and it has been difficult uploading all of what follows...

The intercontenental flight was long, boring, and mostly uneventful. Finally arrived in LA at about 10.15, with my domestic departure scheduled for 11.30. I went through immigration which was really quick, then had to wait for like half an hour for my bag. Then got pretty much waved thru customs, only to get ushered out of the security area, harassed by a panhandler and then left to find my way to the departure lounge. Bham, straight into a TSA checkpoint, which was so slow as to be ridiculous. Take shoes off, take laptop out of case.. work up a sweat simply by being in line. As I waited near the end of the line, the final boarding call for my flight was made. No biggie though, they just put me on the next flight which was only about an hour away.
On landing in Denver it was 87deg f, with a major thunderstorm baring down. I was going to battle with the public bus system to get to the hostel but by the time I finally got there I decided a shuttle was better suited to my demeanor. Upon arrival at the Innkeeper of the Rockies hostel the office was closed, and not due to open for another 2 hours. Tired, poor and hungry, I made a B-line for the nearest pub. It was a brewpub not too far from the hostel. I sat at the bar and devoured a local pilsner, before setting out to explore City Park. The neighborhood is really cool, an area of Denver I had never explored though close enough for me to know where I was.
I finally checked in but even after 14,000km of travel and I don't know how many waking hours, I wasn't tired so I set out on more exploring. On foot. I walked 40 blocks up Colfax, and back. I had only been walking on Colfax, probably the nastiest street in Denver, for a few minutes when I witnessed my first violent confrontation. It was an argument between two homeless looking black guys, culminating in some pushing and shoving, some kicking of shop walls, and violent threats to kill. I found myself inconspicuously moving out of the crossfire so that if the angry man whipped out a gun it wouldn't be all over for me! By the time I got to bed it was almost 1am. I woke at 5am with the sunrise and totally energized, I hit the streets. 1st part of the day was spent walking downtown, riding the lightrail down to the old haunts in Littleton, shopping at Walmart, and strolling up and down 16th Street. At lunchtime I patronized My Brother's Bar, which is an old hangout of Jack Keruac. I had two Great Divide Pilsners and 6 Jelapeno Poppers. Some of the people who worked there were pretty old.. and I wondered if they had ever met Jack Keruac. It was an absolute hoot to finally be there, and I found out it is the oldest bar in Denver. Before I left, I asked them if they were open for dinner.

Turns out they were open for dinner, and until 2am every night. I went back there tonight for dinner with Cindy, who I know from 2005/2006 when I was here and working for Dish Network. We had a really good dinner, and then went to a bar in LoDo for coctails, before heading to a pool hall in Southwest Denver. I don't even know what the place was called but it was home to 36 pool tables and absolutely pumping on a Wednesday night. Some beers, some Long Island Iced Tea, and some pool. What an awesome evening.

Got one day left in Denver. Thinking I will head out to Golden, in West Denver, tomorrow to go take a tour of the Coors (pronounced Coo-ers by locals) Brewery tour. At 8pm I will be heading for Chicago aboard the Amtrak train 'California Zephyr'. Next post from there!

Sydney 2

Yesterday I walked from Mike and Raych's in Redfern all the way to the harbor bridge, and then across it to north sydney. It was a fairly long walk but a really good way to see the city.

After that I caught a train back to Circular Quay and boarded the ferry to Manly. Met up with Leonie and had a steak lunch at Manly Beach before driving up through the northen beaches of Sydney. Arrived at Palm Beach to find a film crew taping scenes for Home and Away. Then we drove to Manly North Point, an awesome lookout where you can see the city from. After a great day, Leonie dropped me back at the wharf and I caught the ferry back to the city.

In the evening Mike and I went to a gig in Newtown, of some really strange music. It was an interesting experience, but the musicians' creative use of feedback left me wondering when the mic testing was going to end and the music begin!

I've had an awesome time in Sydney. Thanks to Mike and Raych for their hospitality. This afternoon I am leaving on the long flight to America.